A print is where a landscape photograph lives most fully. Here's how to get one that looks like your screen — or better.
How big can you print?
Print size depends on pixels and viewing distance.
- 300 PPI is the classic standard for prints viewed up close.
- 150–200 PPI is fine for larger prints viewed from a step back.
- Very large prints viewed from across a room can go lower.
A 24 MP file (6000 × 4000 px) prints at 20 × 13.3 in at 300 PPI, or about 40 × 27 in at 150 PPI. Calculate yours with the print size calculator, and work backward from a target size with the megapixel calculator.
Aspect ratios
Camera files are usually 3:2 or 4:3, but common frames are 8×10, 11×14 and 16×20. Crop deliberately with the aspect ratio calculator rather than letting the lab crop for you.
Paper
- Glossy/luster: deep blacks and saturated color; luster reduces glare.
- Matte fine art: soft, textured, great for misty scenes and black and white; lower contrast.
- Metallic: vivid, luminous; suits bold sunsets and night skies.
- Canvas and metal prints suit large wall pieces.
Calibrate your monitor
Most screens are too bright and too blue. Calibrate with a hardware device and set brightness to about 80–120 cd/m² for print work. Otherwise your prints will look dark.
Soft proofing
Use soft proofing with the lab's or paper's ICC profile to preview how colors will shift. Brighten shadows slightly for matte papers.
Sharpening for print
Sharpen at the final output size. Prints need more sharpening than screens look like they need.
Working with a lab
- Ask for the lab's ICC profiles and preferred file format (usually sRGB or Adobe RGB, 8- or 16-bit TIFF or high-quality JPEG).
- Order a small test print before committing to a large one.
- Ask whether the lab color-corrects; turn it off if you've already edited carefully.
About 1 min read · Updated 2026-10-20