Most landscape effects can be done in software — but not these. Filters change the light before it reaches the sensor.
Circular polarizer (CPL)
A polarizer blocks polarized light, which:
- Removes glare from water, wet rocks and leaves, revealing color.
- Deepens blue skies — strongest at 90° from the sun.
- Cuts reflections on water (or enhances them, depending on rotation).
- Costs about 1–2 stops of light.
Watch out for uneven skies with ultra-wide lenses (a dark band across the sky) and remember that rotating zoom or focus may change the effect.
Solid ND filters
Neutral density filters reduce all light evenly so you can use slower shutter speeds:
| Strength | Filter factor | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| 3 stops (ND8) | 8× | Silky waterfalls in shade |
| 6 stops (ND64) | 64× | Smooth water in daylight |
| 10 stops (ND1000) | 1000× | Minute-long seascapes, streaking clouds |
| 15 stops | 32,768× | Very long daylight exposures |
Use the ND filter calculator or the 10-stop chart.
Tips: compose and focus before attaching a strong ND; cover the viewfinder on DSLRs to stop light leaks; expect a color cast with cheaper filters and correct it in RAW.
Graduated ND filters
Grads darken the sky while leaving the land untouched — useful at sunrise when the sky is 2–4 stops brighter than the foreground. Soft-edge grads suit irregular horizons; hard-edge for flat horizons like the ocean. Many photographers now bracket and blend instead, but grads still save time and handle moving subjects.
Screw-in vs. square systems
Screw-in filters are compact and cheap; square holder systems make stacking grads and NDs easy and fit several lenses with adapter rings. Ultra-wide lenses with bulbous front elements need special holders.
About 1 min read · Updated 2026-10-20